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Panama AnchoragesExcerpted from my cruising guide, Panama By Water, this information reflects my first hand experience from anchoring on Panama's Pacific side over a four-month period.
Pacific Islands
Overview
This portion of Panama’s coast has been a hidden treasure. Many cruisers virtually blast through this area, intent on going to or coming from the canal. Those who do linger here find safe anchorages, good diving, friendly natives, white sand beaches populated by hermit crabs, and, of course, awesome sunsets. Weather long this coast is predictable and follows seasonal patterns. During the rainy season (when I was there), winds are usually light in the morning and come from the east to southeast. They then swing around to the south and southwest and strengthen to 10 to 15 knots until midafternoon, when they begin to die out. Seas follow the wind, calm in the morning hours and choppier as the day progresses; they calm down around sunset. Cumulus clouds build throughout the day and become thunderclouds. Showers late in the day are commonly heavy and are sometimes accompanied by lightning. Strong northerly winds are common during the dry season. Islas Parida/Gamez (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21584)
Isla Parida is the first island landfall when traveling from Costa Rica. Approaching from the west, proceed in a clockwise direction around the north end of the island. Stay at least a mile off the shore and watch closely to avoid the rocky reefs that abound. Isla Gamez, located on the northeast side of Isla Parida, is the quintessential tropical island. Tiny, with a white sand beach lined with coconut palms, it’s a spot to put up the hammock and just hang out—at least on weekdays. Weekends often see the arrival of numerous power boats and parties from Pedrigal, which is a short hop away on the mainland. Of course, more active pursuits are available in the neighborhood: shelling, beachcombing, coconut harvesting, snorkeling, and diving. The primary anchorage at Gamez is on the north side in about 15 feet of sand. An alternate anchorage site on the south side is effective for protection from northerly winds and related seas. It is not very big, however, and can be affected by the Pacific swell. I tried out two anchorages on the south side of Isla Parida; they are worth a visit, but are also open to the ocean swell. Tucking in on the northwest tip of Isla Paradita is probably the best protection in this stretch. There are many excellent diving opportunities around and near Parida. Dozens of little islets and reefs are scattered to the east, and beckon to underwater explorers. Isla Bolanos is an interesting day trip, either by powerful dinghy or with the big boat. However, I don’t recommend the anchorage here for an overnight stay. Islas Secas (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21580)
The route between Isla Parida and Isla Cavada skirts the north side of a set of rocky reefs that lies between them. The “dry islands” can be an anchoring challenge. Shallows and coral reefs extend well out from the northern shore of Isla Cavada, which is the anchorage of choice. This diminishes the protection afforded by the land, and makes the area untenable when northerlies blow. Some cruisers who have passed through here when the weather had been less than hospitable deny that there is any viable anchorage here at all. Others, like me, were able to visit in good conditions; while I certainly don’t argue the trickiness of the anchorage, I was glad I visited. For SCUBA divers, a lovely day stop is the northernmost (unnamed) island of the group. The small cove on the south is a little too cramped for an overnight stay, and you’ve got to search through the clear water to find a sand patch to drop your anchor. Islas Contreras (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21583)
The large bay on the north side of Isla Brincanco is the “party line” anchorage in the Contreras group. This is very well protected, with two anchorage choices. The eastern spot is nearest the fresh water source and is favored by Panamanian fishing boats that work the area. The western spot, on the other side of the reef that juts out from the center part of the shore, is also good holding. Isla Cebaco (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21582)
Isla Cebaco is the easternmost island of the Pacific island group. Caleta Cayman, a large bay at the southwest end of the island, is the anchorage of choice. Entry is straightforward, though take care when rounding the tip of Cebaco. Rocky reefs extend out from the point at least a couple of miles, so it would be best to round the island with room to spare. Back to top
Pacific Mainland
More from Panama By Water, this information is also from my four months on Panama's Pacific side. Puerto Armuelles to Punta Mala: Overview
With the exception of Bahia Honda, the mainland anchorages from Puerto Armuelles to Punta Mala are not as good as the island anchorages. Most are either rolly, being susceptible to the Pacific swell, or are hazardous to approach or to anchor in. As with the islands, rocky reefs present a danger, and great care is recommended. Travel during mid-day to obtain the best visibility and keep a close watch on the depth sounder and chart. Dinghy ahead with a lead line if any doubts exist about the safety of the route or the depth. Puerto Armuelles
This is the Pacific port of entry outside the Canal Zone. A small town primarily support commercial fishing vessels, until recently it had a reputation for unfriendliness to cruising yachts. Current reports (keep in mind this was written in 1994!) indicate this attitude has changed; apparently government officials and townspeople alike are friendly and helpful. Anchor on the north side of the commercial pier in 15 to 20 feet of sand. Beach the dinghy, or, of you feel adventurous, tie up to the pier and climb the ladder. Lock the dinghy in either case, and keep updated on the time and height of tides. Provisions and some services are available. Buses run to the nearby city of David and to Costa Rica. Pedrigal (Emergency Only!)
I’ve included this information in case there is an emergency that requires stopping in Pedrigal. Otherwise I do no recommend attempting the route, which is extremely difficult to find and navigate. If you must make landfall here, find a local who can act as a pilot or use your dinghy and lead line for advance exploration. Pedrigal is the port of the city of David, the “metropolis” of western Panama. Abundant provisions, service, and transportation are available. The main route from the sea is the Boca Brava, not the Boca San Pedro, a more direct route but it can be extremely shallow. Depths along the route range from 60 feet down to less than 10 feet. The channel dog-legs to the left between Isla Mono and Isla Boquita. At Isla Hiqueros the channel turns right for the final approach. Bahia Honda (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21583)
Bahia Honda is by far the best anchorage choice on the mainland. Though it shallows out past Isla Talon, there are several good spots that offer excellent protection. The anchorage off Isla Talon is a little cramped. Anchor on the northwest side, south of the small islet. Depths of 30 feet or less can be found fairly close to shore. The village is accessible by dinghying around to the northern side, but be aware of depth! It can get quite shallow. Be prepared for lots of knocks on the hull from visiting villagers, who come to sell or trade food items, or just to talk. The small cove in the northwest corner of the bay is far more peaceful than Isla Talon. Holding is good; if you can find the sand bar that is in the middle of the cove, anchor in about 20 feet. There are other potential anchorage areas in the bay, but I have not tried them. Punta Naranjo
The only information I have on Punta Naranjo is that it can be rolly in a south swell. Ensenada Benao
The main reason to anchor in Ensenada Benao is to wait for favorable conditions to round Punta Mala, 12 miles to the east. The anchorage is cramped behind a small island in the northeast corner of the bay; a stern anchor is recommended. Holding is adequate in 20 feet of sand. Back to top
Bay of Panama
More from Panama By Water, this is the area that most cruisers visit, having by-passed the islands and mainland. I have not included details regarding a canal transit, since things have changed since I was there.Overview
The Bay of Panama is a superhighway of cargo ships entering and leaving the canal. Counterclockwise currents run swiftly, and present a challenge to northbound boats. The Perlas Islands are a favorite stop for cruisers inbound to or outbound from the Panama Canal. Punta Mala (Ref: DMA Chat No. 21601)
Anticipation of an eastbound rounding of Punta Mala is a common subject on the morning ham net. In common with most conversations about cruising, almost everyone who has made the trip will chime in with snippets of advice. The time of year, weather conditions, and water current will affect one’s strategy in making this passage. Several things combine to make an eastbound rounding of Punta Mala so “bad.” The currents in the bay move clockwise and move as quickly as two knots; consult the DMA pilot chart for seasonal variations. In addition, the prevailing wind is northerly to northeasterly, and sustained winds above 20 knots are not unusual. Add in the proximity of extremely busy shipping lanes leading to and from the Canal Zone, and one has all the ingredients of a tense, uncomfortable passage. At the point itself, increased current strength and tidal rips can make the trip around more hazardous. Boats that encounter strong winds head off toward the Perlas Island once into the bay rather than slog into the wind toward Balboa. These islands are at a fairly favorable bearing; from the Perlas, a boat has the current in its favor when traveling to Balboa. Not all passages around Punta Mala are difficult. My passage in May of 1993 was benign, with no wind blowing and very calm seas. I followed the advice of one faction of seasoned veterans and followed the 10-fathom curve around the point. This put me within a mile of shore—I could clearly hear the surf breaking. This allowed me to pick up a favorable inshore countercurrent. I was well out of shipping lanes; I could see what looked like moving islands to the east that were in fact laden cargo ships. Because there was no wind, I motored straight to Taboga Island just outside the Canal Zone. Coming from the Canal Zone, the passage around Punta Mala can be more of a sled ride. Essentially a downwind run with the prevailing current, the point might be “Punta Tranquila.” Isla Taboga (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21605)
Many cruising yachts use Taboga as their homebase when in the Canal Zone, though a Caribbean-bound yacht must first put in to Balboa to be admeasured and again to pick up its advisor and line handlers for a canal transit. A ferry operates daily to Balboa. One disadvantage of Taboga is the throng of people that descends on the island and adjacent waters on the weekends. Power boats and jet skis make life exciting in an irritating way when living at anchor. The favored anchorage is along the east side of the island. The safest area for anchoring is, unfortunately, in a depth of 50 feet, shallower areas having been filled with mooring balls and buoys. The holding is good in sand. Stay clear of the approach to the ferry dock, especially along the rhumb line between it and Isla Taboguilla; boats loaded with workmen charge in to the docks and don’t care about disturbing anchored boats. Also, stay away from the small island, Morro de Taboga because sunken hazards (cars and railroad tracks, to name two) can cause problems. Another anchoring spot is across the sand bar just off the northern tip of Taboga. Though not recommended as a dry season anchorage because of its northern exposure, it can be a good alternative to the weekend rock and roll during the rainy season. Islas Perlas (Ref: DMA Chart 21605)
The “Pearl Islands” have been pearled out, but are nevertheless a favorite stop for cruisers going either direction. There are around 225 islands in the group, ranging in size from very small to very large. Diving is good during the dry season when the water is clear, and sport fishing is popular. The most often visited islands are Pedro Gonzalez, San José, and Contadora. Most boats steer clear of Isla del Rey because of its reputation for drug cultivation and all the associated aspects of that crop. Isla de San José: The island is largely uninhabited and mostly privately owned. The large bay on the west side is usually open to swell. Stay well away from shore in 15 to 18 feet. The most popular anchorage is in the northwest corner to the small southeastern by in 18 to 20 feet. Isla Pedro Gonzalez: There are several anchorages here, depending on weather. On the island’s north side, one area is to the west of the small island with a white cross; another is further east off the village. A third anchorage is in a large well-protected bay on the northeast side of the island. Isla Contadora: A resort island with accompanying amenities, Isla Contadora is a favorite weekend getaway for Panama City folk. The best anchorage is on the south side of the island near the runway. Planes fly regularly between Contadora and Panama City, and the island is filled with visitors on the weekends. Flamenco Island (Ref: DMA Chart No. 21603)
When I was in the Canal Zone in 1993, this was the only recognized free anchorage. The designated anchorage is clearly marked on the canal approach chart. Though apparently a safe anchorage, getting ashore was a problem. The only safe spot is the Balboa Yacht Club, and dinghies were not allowed to dock there when I was a resident. Balboa Yacht Club
The current BYC was not there when I visited; a fire destroyed that building and a new club has been built. A visit to the web site, however, indicates that policies regarding visiting boats are the same. The BYC has two marine railways to haul yachts for bottom maintenance. At the end of a 640 foot pier and 100 foot steel ramp is a floating fuel barge where yachts can tie up to take on fuel, water and passengers. There are no long term slips here; all boats live on moorings. The club maintains approximately 130 moorings in two anchorages north and south of the pier. There five finger piers near the end of the main pier which can be rented on an hourly basis for boat maintenance and cleaning. The BYC operates launches 24 hours per day to transport members and visitors to and from their boats, and does not allow dinghies to dock on the pier. Visitors will be assigned a mooring on arrival at the BYC. Stay in or just outside the canal’s approach channel until the yacht club pier is on the beam in order to avoid shallows just south of the mooring area. Contact the club at bycpma@sinfo.net to get updates on club status and procedures. Pedro Miguel Boat Club
Though it's not in the Bay of Panama, but rather just off the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal, the PMBC must be mentioned. This has been a haven for cruisers for years, and should be considered if you need to stop for repairs or need to leave the boat for a period of time. There has been some controversy in recent years regarding the PMBC remaining at its present location. I am not equipped to summarize the issue; the best way to get an update is to visit the club's web site or contact the club office at pmbcadmin@pmbc.ws.
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Colón and Its Approaches
More from Panama By Water. We were in the Canal Zone before it was completely under Panamanian management. Things may therefore have changed in Colón. Overview
In my mind, the approaches to Colón are mostly quick overnight stops between the Canal Zone and the San Blas Islands. The exception is Portobelo, which is worth exploration. Isla Grande (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26066)
This can be a rest stop on the way between Colón or Portobelo and the San Blas Islands, breaking the passage into two easy day trips. The island caters to the tourist trade and is full of hotels and restaurants. The best anchorage is at the southwestern end of the island: this provides wind protection. The more open anchorages in the channel between the island and the mainland can be uncomfortable in the high winds of the dry season and the squalls of the rainy season. Juan Joaquin Island (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26066)
Known locally as “Isla Linton,” this is a pleasant alternative to the Isla Grande anchorages. Reliable sources cite this as “Very quiet! Good holding in gray mud.” Entry can be made from either side of the island, but watch carefully if navigating the pass between Linton and the mainland. Anchor off the southwestern corner of the island in 30 feet. A private wildlife rehabilitation center was operating on the mainland when I was here. Permission to visit was obtainable at the center’s dock. Portobelo (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26066)
Sit in the cockpit at dusk while in Portobelo, close your eyes, and concentrate. You may be able to hear the clinking of armor and the groan of galleons at anchor nearby. If your imagination can extend so far, you might hear the voices of Spanish soldiers echoing from the fortresses guarding the bay, or the sounds of battle as Sir Francis Drake’s fleet engages the Spanish forces. The remains of what once was a very prominent part of the Spanish American empire conjure up visions for even the most down to earth visitors to Portobelo. Though the most prominent of the original bastions have disappeared, old fortress walls lined with cannons still stand on either side of the large bay. Lookout posts still stand on promontories above the main compounds. The old Customs House, where Peruvian silver and other goods arrived to be counted and recorded by the King’s representatives, was in the process of being renovated when I was there (1993). And the local church boasts a miracle that draws pilgrims annually from all over the country. On a more practical scale, the anchorage choices in Portobelo are both good. For easy access to the town, anchor off the remains of the first fort on the south side of the bay. Depths are around 25 feet in mud. For more privacy, anchor off the opposite fort in similar conditions. There are small stores in town for provisions and a number of restaurants that cater to tourists who pass through regularly. Besides hiking around the fortresses, there are exploration opportunities by dingy. There is a river at the head of the bay that can be navigated some distance. For snorkeling adventures, dinghy around the northern point near Drake Island. Transportation to Colón is available from Portobelo from the buses that travel the road through town. Colón (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26068)
Colón has a reputation as a tough town, and, in my opinion, deserves it. Once the headquarters for the Canal Zone, the town is now more or less a ghetto, though the exercise of common sense can easily minimize personal risk. The Panama Canal Yacht Club was the focus of cruising life when I was in Colón. I believe it still operates; the copyright date on its web site is 2001, so it is hard to tell. Assuming that it is much the same as when I lived there for a while in 1993, it is a well-equipped facility, with all the amenities that make life a little easier while in port. It is separated from the town by railroad tracks and a large container yard, so walking anywhere from the club requires crossing a high safety risk area. This makes the club a little cut off from the rest of the town, and requires the use of taxis on a frequent basis. Try contacting the club at pcyachtclub@cwpanama.net to get current slip rates. A free anchorage is available near the yacht club in The Flats. The triangular area is delineated by yellow buoys. Holding is medium to poor, so the anchor should be set very carefully. Extra security precautions should be taken while anchored here; there were reports of boardings by intruders from cruisers who stayed in this area during my visit.
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The San Blas Islands
More from Panama By Water. I spent six weeks in this unique archipelago and loved every minute of it. Overview
Not having cruised the South Pacific, I can’t say for certain, but I suspect that visiting the San Blas Islands is pretty close to that experience. An archipelago of coral-strewn islands, the area supports what seems like a limitless number of anchorages for visiting yachts. The outer islands are palm-studded with white sand beaches and are often ringed by coral reefs. Huts are dotted here and there. The islands closer to the mainland are more populous; villagers cover every square inch of available land. An airstrip is commonly either on each island or close by on the mainland. Dry season travel through the area can be very windy as the northeast trade winds come ripping through the Caribbean. Snorkeling or diving the outer (windward) reefs is impossible in such conditions. Rainy season brings its own troubles. Squalls and thunderstorms are frequent. Lightning strikes occur every year to at least two or three visiting yachts. Further, the runoff from the mountains into the sea obscures visibility, making it difficult to impossible to navigate by sight through reef-strewn areas. These anchorage listings run from south to north. Isla Pinos to Islandia
The southern third of the San Blas is not as frequently visited by cruisers as the northern area. Schedule pressures and weather concerns often conspire to limit the time spent and area covered. Additionally, navigation through this area can be challenging, as DMA charts do not exist for the region. If you plan to cruise this area, arm yourself with Tom and Nancy Zydler’s excellent guide (The Panama Guide: A Cruising Guide to the Isthmus of Panama). They provide excellent detail that is not available elsewhere for this stretch of the San Blas archipelago. I did not cruise this area myself. The notes I provide were gathered from other cruisers. Isla Pinos: Unlike the other islands of the archipelago, Pinos is mountainous, resembling the whale for which it is named by the Kunas (Tupak). Because of its distinctive topography, it is an excellent landfall for boats coming from the east. Pinos has been a favorite hideaway for smugglers and pirates. The “word on the water” is that Sir Francis Drake was a regular visitor. Cruising friends have reported mysterious night time goings on in the anchorage. The favored anchorage at Pinos is off Mamimulu, a tine cluster of huts on the southern end of the “inshore” side of the island. Approach can apparently be made from the south, or through an easy-to-see pass (depth reported at 11 feet) on the north end. Once ashore in Mamimulu, one can walk to the larger village of Tupak. The route goes through the island’s cemetery, which I am told is interesting in and of itself. Ustupu: The next anchorage when traveling from Isla Pinos is reported to be Ustupu. The route passes close to Isla Mosquito, keeping the extensive areas of shoals and breakers to starboard. The anchorage is off the village dock in about 15 feet of water. Achutupu: The next leg is reportedly a potential adrenaline rush. The channel of deep water between shoals gets narrower, requiring clear water and a vigilant look out. Just after passing Achutupu, a heavily populated island, the route runs to 235˚T to stay in deep water. There is an anchorage here off the town, but reports I received discouraged stopping: too many people in too many canoes can be very tiresome. Based on reports, I recommend pressing on to Islandia. Islandia to Snug Harbor
These anchorages were the furthest south I went during my stay in the San Blas. This was a great stretch to visit, because it is far enough away from the bustle in the islands nearer to Colón to make the anchorages more peaceful. Islandia (No chart reference): The Islandia anchorage is one of my favorites. Well-protected from the north, east, and west by three islets and reefs, holding is good in sand with depth around 25 feet. As with all the anchorages on the outer islands of the archipelago, diving and beach combing are good. Though visitors can be expected, they are not overwhelming in number. The village of Alligandi is a short dinghy ride away; a good-sized village, the sahila (chief) is represented by an assistant headquartered on the second floor of a concrete office building. Further signs of cosmopolitan living can be seen in the large medical complex and the arts and crafts center. Several tiendas sell staple items and produce. Snug Harbor (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26042): These anchorages are in the group marked on the chart as “Cabeza Cays.” Care should be taken around Punta Brava as there are numerous reefs and shallows. Travel when the sun is high and the water is clear. At Accuasir you can choose between a northerly and southerly route. The former is less arduous as far as reef-dodging, but it is longer. If you want to taste village life up close and personal, anchor at Tupile where you can find 30-foot depths near the village’s southwest corner. The safest route around Playon Chico is to the outside; there is clear water fairly close to the north side of the island. There are eligible anchorage areas on the other side of the island between it and airstrip. However, my preference would be to go on another couple of miles to Snug Harbor. Snug Harbor is a bit large for its name, but it is indeed a well-protected anchorage. Holding is good in 25 to 30 feet; stay away from the islands to avoid bugs as much as possible. Playon Chico, a large island town of friendly people, can be visited with a powerful dinghy. Isla Tigre to Chichime Cays
This is probably the part of the San Blas that is most visited by cruising boats. As is the case in other parts of the archipelago, there are many more anchorages to visit than are listed here. Isla Tigre (Ref: DMA Chart 26063): This was my favorite village stop. A small anchorage on the southwestern end in 13 to 15 feet of sand is protected by the island itself. Approach can be made from either side of the island; deep water runs fairly close to the island, with easily discerned reefs dotted along the route. On our first visit ashore, we were met by the sahila’s aide-de-camp and asked to sign the guest book. We were then escorted to the congresso hall, where we were introduced to Don Ramón, the sahila. The initial visit was quite formal. During a later visit I took small gifts and asked permission to take photos of the village. (Kunas can be very sensitive about having their pictures taken; sometimes they expect to be paid.) Don Ramón forbade his villagers to visit yachts in his anchorage. He had heard of other villages where the cayucas literally surround the boats and hawk their wares incessantly. He wanted cruising visitors to come to his village, and believed they would not do so if they are afraid of being swamped by Kunas. This rule made Tigre a very popular stop with cruisers when I was there, evidence of Don Ramón’s astuteness. Let the word go around the village that you’re in the market for molas and you will be surrounded when you come ashore. Every doorway you pass will be clogged with women waving molas, shells, and strings of beads. Children will follow you, and some will tug at your sleeve to tell you that their mother asks you to come visit her hut to see her wares. Generally speaking, mola quality on Tigre is excellent. Rio Diablo (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26063): Rio Diablo villages is the most built up of the Kuna towns I visited. There is an actual skyline and most of the buildings are concrete left-overs from the missionaries and Peace Corps workers who came to “improve” conditions. Anchor on the south side of the island. Approach and leave from the island’s west side and keep a close eye on the depth sounder. There may be some homemade markers along the reef that extends from the island to aid you. Holding is good in 20 feet. The village is actually two islands separated by a foot bridge. Provisions are readily available at any of a number of small stores on both islands. There was even a bank, though its operating hours were sporadic. Rio Diablo was an exception to the rule with regard to visiting Kuna villages. There was no visit to the sahila. The villagers, while friendly, were not intrusive at all. My group was approached and subsequently hosted by the Kuna pastor of one of the churches. He took great care of us, and taught us some Kuna phrases. The high point of the Rio Diablo visit was the river trip by dinghy. We were rewarded with sightings of abundant wildlife, including basilisk lizards, bright blue morpho butterflies, and a troop of marmosets swinging through the trees. One word of warning: Caution should be exercised when traveling the San Blas rivers during the rainy season. The mountain downpours that are common at this time of year can swell the rivers downstream and present some dangers to boats. The area to the north and east of Rio Diablo is studded with reefs and small islands. Snorkeling and beach combing among the fleet of Kuna fishing boats can be very enjoyable. Green Island (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26063): Green Island is part of a cluster of uninhabited islands located in the “middle” belt of the archipelago. It is a lovely (though sometimes buggy) oasis. We had no visitors while anchored here; other cruisers reported no more than one or two cayucas alongside over a several-day stay. The anchorage is on the south side of the island in a large cove. Careful eyeball navigation is necessary here. If approaching from Rio Diablo, you must pass outside the group and continue past Green Island, then turn to pass between the submerged reefs from the north. Holding is good in sand, but you must shop for a spot shallow enough (30 feet or less) that is still far enough from shore to minimize bugs. Holandes Cays (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26063): Holandes Cays are probably the most common landfall for schedule-crunched cruisers coming from elsewhere in the Caribbean. The most popular anchorages here are on the east end of the group. The first bay is formed by three islands; the southeastern one, called Tia Tupu by the Kunas, has a small village on it. Anchor off the village or in the northern part of the bay. Watch out for reefs—they are easy to spot in good light. The anchorage to the west of Caobos Cay is the most popular in this group. We securely sat out the effects of a tropical depression forming just north of us; winds were 35 knots and higher over a 24-hour period. The protecting reef kept the water smooth, and the land masses to the north kept the full force of the winds from reaching us. Entry into the anchorage is made through a narrow passage between the tip of Caobos Cay and the eastern side of the reef. The passage is about 50 feet side and 30 feet deep. It’s easy to see in bright sunlight; time your arrival as close to noon as possible. Note that your GPS readings may not match the chart in this area. Chichime Cays (Ref: DMA Chart No. 26063): Chichime is usually the first San Blas landfall for cruisers coming from Colón and the last for those going to the Canal Zone. It is a very secure bay-like anchorage “secured” by two island on either side of the entrance and surrounded the rest of the way by a well-developed reef. Enter the bay from the west through a passage between the two islands. The chart is misleading here; the small islet just outside the entrance is misplaced. There is an islet outside the entrance with one lone palm tree on it (there may be more now!); keep this islet to starboard when entering. The clusters of huts on the islands are occupied by Kuna families on a rotating basis. They take turns cultivating coconuts and hawking their wares to visitors. The family on the southern tip of the north island was especially friendly during my visit; they hosted a cruisers potluck one evening, and seemed to enjoy it.
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