Cruising Northern Australia:
Cairns to Carnarvon

by Leslie P. Richards

(an extract)

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Port Essington is entered between Smiths Point and Vashon Head.  The entrance is approx. 8 miles wide.  Take care to clear Orontes Reef (11° 04’S : 132° 05’ E) which lies about 5 miles northwest of Smiths Point.  On the southern side of the reef, there are a number of underwater rocks, these and the reef are difficult to see as the water is discoloured and the sea does not always break over them.

Port Essington is a very scenic inlet that is 18 miles in length and provides many secure anchorages.  The port is divided into two harbours by a shoal patch that runs northwest from Record Point towards Oyster Point.  This is about two thirds of the way south from the entrance. There is a ranger station at Black Point who will assist with permits and other useful information.  All boats should call here upon entering Port Essington.

I spent some time here and thoroughly enjoyed myself.  It is a vast area with many secure and secluded anchorages.  I will show the ones I used but there are many others available. 

The ruins of the small settlement of Victoria lay on the western shores of the inner harbour to the south of Minto Head.  It was a British garrison settlement from 1838 until it was deserted in 1849.  The Northern Territory Conservation Commission has built a jetty at Victoria Settlement and has repaired the decaying stonework.  There are cleared pathways around the ruins.   

Pearl Farms exist in Knocker Bay on the western side, south of a line from Curlew Point to Oyster Point.  Keep well clear when anchoring.

Smiths Point is at the eastern entrance to Port Essington and is easily identified by the monument on the point, which stands 8 metres high.  South of this towards Black Point will be seen a radio mast.  A reef extends half way to Black Point, so give a clearance of 1.25 miles for safety.  The flood tide runs west across the entrance.

BLACK POINT: 11° 09’S  - 132° 09’E

Black Point is located two miles south of Smiths Point.  This is where the ranger station is located.  Anchorage is west of the jetty at the end of the sandy beach outside the shore reef.  The tall trees above the cliff are around the conspicuous buildings of the ranger station.  To go ashore, dinghy to the boat ramp on the other side of the jetty.  Anchor in 3 metres.  Trawlers often anchor around this area.  All vessels should visit the ranger station to obtain a permit to go ashore in the port area.  The cost is $10 per person.  Fuel and water are available but depth may be a problem.  There is a small store with limited supplies opening daily from 3 - 4 PM but check the hours.  There is a cultural centre that is worth a look.  A walk out to Smiths Point is also rewarding.  Both fuel and stores are extremely over priced.

Berkeley Bay anchorage lies to the north of Table Head out from Caiman Creek in 3 metres over mud.  The creek can be travelled by dinghy at high tide.  When coming south from Black Point be sure to give Reef Point a wide clearance, as the reef area extends out from the point for a bit over half a mile.

Barrow Bay is in the Inner Harbour and is entered to the south of Record Point.  Do not turn in too soon as the mud flats extend south for around 0.25 mile.  Anchorage can be taken anywhere depth allows. Do not anchor too far in as the mud flats extend out from the mangroves for about half a mile, and in the south-east corner for nearly 1 mile.  There is also a shoal patch in the southeast corner out from the end of the mud flats.  In the centre of the bay there is also a patch of 1.7 metres with surrounding waters of 2-3 metres.  When coming from Berkeley Bay, give Table Head a wide berth as there is reef running northwest from the point and a drying rock 0.5 mile west of Table Head.

South of Middle Head is Mangrove Point which has two bays, one on either side.  East Bay cannot be penetrated too far as it is shoal and dries.  The best anchorage was found in the middle of the entry in 2 metres over mud.  Do not go much further in than the two entry points.  West Bay can be entered for about 0.75 miles south of Mangrove Point.  Anchor in mid channel in 2 metres over mud.  Mangrove Point has a drying spit that extends a bit over 1 mile to the north and northwest.

The old settlement of Victoria lies on the western shore of the Inner Harbour to the south of Minto Head, on top of the red cliffs extending south to Adam Head.  There is a jetty alongside the remains of the original stone one.  I anchored in 3 metres out from Adam Head south of the jetty.  It is an interesting place to visit. It is hard to imagine how anyone could survive here for eleven years from 1838 to 1849 with very little contact with the outside world.

Knocker Bay is found to the south of Oyster Point and Kangaroo Point.  The shores are bordered by shoal water with patches of reef.  Entry is not difficult but be aware that the bay is used for pearl farming.  There are numerous rafts and moorings so take care not to interfere with them in any way.  With care it was possible to anchor to the south of the rafts in 3 metres just to the south of Point Sleeman, but this may change if more rafts are added.  It may be best to anchor to the north of the farm first and decide from there.

CAUTION:  Pearl raft locations are not shown as they may vary in number and location.

This bay is found to the west of Curlew Point.  It is a calm weather anchorage only and cannot be penetrated far.  It is exposed to winds from the north through to southmost.  Anchorage is in the centre of the bay in 2.5 metres.  The shores extend out into the bay and are shoal and drying with patches of reef.  Do not go any further in than Sandy Point on your beam.

Kennedy Bay offers good protection and is found to the west of Turtle Point.  The best anchorage I found was out from the centre of the second bay south from Turtle Point, in 3 metres of good holding mud.  When coming from the south, make sure to give False Turtle Head a wide berth as reef extends east for around 0.7 mile. Also give Turtle Point a good clearance as the reef runs nearly 1 mile to the east and the northwest.

When coming from Kennedy Bay give Low Point a clearance of at least 0.7 miles to clear the reef.  Also give Balford Point a clearance of at least 1.25 miles, especially in the northwest as the reef extends out for nearly 1 mile.  The eastern shores of Coral Bay also have reef extending for some distance.  It is suggested that the western shore be favoured, but not too far over as there are more reefs.  There are a number of anchorages in this area including Seven Spirit Bay.  This is a small resort where fuel, ice and moorings are available, but call first on VHF16 as permission must first be obtained before entering the resort area.  This may entail having to buy a meal at $25 but it is worth it.  After clearing the reef around Balford Point, anchorage can be found in 3 metres out from the fringing reef in the first bay along the Eastern Shore.

Gunners Quoin lies on the western shore of Coral Bay and gives a good anchorage out from the fringing reef in 4 metres.  Do not go any further in than with the small island to the east on your beam.  The fishing is quite good throughout Coral Bay.